To open the cluster you need to unlock 5 locks ("+" shape) on the back panel. The plier too will be very handy. Some patience is required. Locks are pretty fragile, so be gentle.
After you done with the locks there are 2 more clips on the top of the cluster and 2 on the bottom.
Remove the clear lens
Unscrew 8 screws shown on the picture below.
There are 3 connectors in the back - White, Black and Blue. Each of those connectors have 4 little clips holding the rear cover in place. If you'll take a look - you'll see each of those little clips in the every outside corner of the connector. You can release those clips by putting a match to the every corner. This step require a lot of patience. Additionaly you'll find 2 more clips holding on the white LCD plastic support.
By the way - we advice to cover the LCD with the tape to prevent any scratches, fingerprints etc.
OPTION1 - Not the expert
If you are not the professinal BMW cluster repair technician you probably do not have needle removal tool. In that case you'll need to drill 4 holew to get the access to the screws. DO NOT TRY TO PULL THE NEEDLES OFF. Otherwise you'll damage the stepper motors (but if you already did - we can repair them for $50/ea).
First hole by the fuel gauge
Second hole below the speedometer
Third hole by the DSC light
Fourth hole by the MPG/OIL temp gauge
Option 2 - Expert (assuming you have needle removal tools)
If you are BMW Cluster repair technician you probably have the tool to remove the needles and skip above mentioned "hole drill" option.
Mark the "dead" 0 position for all needles before you remove them.
Remove the MPG/OIL temp needle using needle removal tool
Do you see 4 screws just above the LCD? You need to unscrew those through the holes (if you did go with Option 1 above), or you have the full access to them if you did go with Option 2 above.
After the screws removed - carefully remove the plastic support with the LCD and metal bracket (3 contacts on the left and on the right). You can pry it with the flat screwdriver, but don't go crazy.
After supper with LCD removed - remove the LCD from the support by removing the metal bracket first. Pretty straight forward.
Make sure to clean the contacts on both LCD and circuit board thoroughtly until they are gold and shiny on the circuit board and there are no any residuals left on the LCD.
Attention, if you'll see that some of the contacts on the LCD are not solid anymore - find the new LCD before you proceed next. Please see the picture below showing the defective LCD screen. We have brand new screens in stock!
If you have ribbon cable without holes - it's time now to cut them. If you have the ribbon cable with holes - you can skip this step obviously :)
After everything was cleaned - allign the contacts and solder the ribbon cable to the LCD first. Obviously you do not use real solder.
The ribbon cables that we do sell does have the adhesive layer already on them. Soldering iron with T-Tip is used to melt it.
If you use carbon cable - 30w soldering iron with T-Tip is required.
For silver ribbon cable use 40-50w soldering iron.
Then align contacts and solder the ribbon cable to the circuit board.
Turn over the whole cluster.
Apply the tape on the contacts as shown on the screen. It will help to prevent contact damage during the assembling process. The metal bracket is sharp and it can cut the ribbon cable and/or make short circuit in the traces on the ribbon cable.
Cut the holes.
Assemble in reverse order. Make sure to use pliers to install the support before you screw 4 screws in place. Be gentle and don't damage the circuit board and/or LCD plastic support.
Complete the assembling till you get everything back in place and this is what you should see.
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You do the repair on your own risk. Best Pixel Repair INC is not liable for any possible damage, losses or injury done using this manual.
If you are not comfortable with the repair on your own - please use our pixel repair services.